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Pečenjarnice su simbol Zadra. U tolikom broju, koliko ih je u Zadru, nema ih nigdje u Hrvatskoj.
Zavezani janjci i odojci, nabijeni na ražanj, vrte se naočigled prolaznika, na ulicama. Od sedam sati ujutro širi se miris pečenja u najurbanijim gradskim četvrtima.
- Je, po tome je baš Zadar poseban. Prva pečenjarnica najbliža Zadru je tek kod Murtera. Ili ona druga, na Boraji. Nema ih bliže. A u Zadru ih, recimo, samo u Ulici Franka Lisice na Bulevaru ima tri. Pa kod Vidaića, pa Paleka, evo i mi radimo već pola stoljeća… – kaže Jadranka Brkljača, vlasnica pečenjarnice Brkljača na Smiljevcu u Zadru.
Pola stoljeća?
- Dogodine ćemo proslaviti 50 godina bavljenja ovim poslom. Počeli smo 11. lipnja 1974. Eto – kaže Jadranka, sva crvena od blizine vatre. Pričamo s njom u pečenjarnici Brkljača, u donjem dijelu kuće, gdje se meso peče. Jadranka ima 65 godina i desna je ruka suprugu Mili. Oboje su iz Raštevića, on je započeo posao, a ona je imala 19 godina kad se udala za njega i od tada se od vatre nije maknula.
Nije vam dosadilo?
- Ne! Zato što volim ovaj posao. Malo sam nekad masna, malo neuredna, malo mi nekad dim „pojede“ oči, ali to je tako. Sinovi mi kažu da prestanem raditi, ali ja volim. Kao da je prvi dan. Stavljam na ražanj, pečem, siječem… sve – smije se Jadranka.
Ni umorili se niste?
- E, lipa moja, da ti kažem nešto. Udala sam se s 19, muž je već radio ovaj posao, nije tu bilo puno mudrovanja, sikiru u ruku, nauči kako se siječe janjetina, peci, nosi. Jedno za drugim četvero djece sam rodila. Dva moja sina i dvije kćeri, svi smo u ovom poslu. Mene „nosi“ ponos i zadovoljstvo. Obitelj na okupu, svi u istom poslu koji smo tako skromno počeli u Rašteviću. A tek zadovoljstvo naših kupaca koliko mi znači. Nema umora. A imamo i radnike – priča Jadranka Brkljača.
Rat ih je otjerao iz Raštevića i u Zadru su nastavili peći i prodavati meso. Od 2000. godine su na Smiljevcu, nema tko ne zna za pečenjarnicu Brkljača uz magistralnu cestu. Iduće godine, kad budu slavili pola stoljeća bavljenja ovim poslom, otvorit će na katu prostor gdje će se moći sjesti.
- Nismo pečenjara. U pečenjarama se peku i čevapi, pljeskavice… A pečenjarnice su mjesta gdje se na ražnju peku samo odojci i janjci. Ljudi dođu, kupe, odu. Zadar je specifičan koliko toga ima, svi hoće pečeno, za ponit, ne žele sjediti. Mi u šest sati ujutro palimo vatru – ubacuje se Sebastijan Brkljača, 37-godišnji sin Mile i Jadranke. Sve vodi i nadzire, od nabavke janjaca i odojaka, do isporuke kupcima, ali ne zaustavlja se s radom dok priča s nama. Stavlja janjca na ražanj i grabi sol.
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Pošto kilo pečene janjetine?
- 30 eura. To vam je 225 kuna, donedavno. Kilo odojka je 18 eura, znači 135 kuna – kaže Sebastijan dok solju „maže“ janjca. Okrene ga. Za dvije male kuke na ražnju kači mu zadnje dvije noge.
- To je puškica, to vam ljudi jako vole – dobaci Sebastijan, kad je „ulovio“ moj pogled.
- Ali plećka je broj jedan. To se najviše traži. I rebarca – kaže Sebastijan i nevjerojatnom brzinom s dvije žice podvezuje dijelove janjca na ražnju. Papršnjacima zatvara utrobu. Soli. Prevrće. Vezuje. Namješta.
---
---
Koliko ste ih u životu tako stavili ražanj?
- Nema te livade na koju bi stao toliki broj janjaca koliko sam ih spremio za peći.
Nema?
- Nema. Vjerujte – mirno kaže Sebastijan i nosi janjca iznad vatre.
- Znate, papršnjake i glave traže kupci da im prodamo odvojeno. To su ipak delicije. Prvi kupci nam stižu prije devet ujutro, oni nose pečeno meso sa sobom na selo, na otoke, na put… Drugi val stiže oko 11 sati, tako, do podne, to su marende – započeo je govoriti Sebastijan, kad je vozilo zadarske Hitne pomoći zaškripalo stajući uz pečenjarnicu. Nikome nije trebala pomoć, nego je ekipa došla po malo pečenog. Podne je, vrijeme marende…
- Puno više se prodaje odojak. Janjetina ide za fešte ili nedjeljom. Naša kultura je takva. Nema tog krštenja, svadbe, pričesti, krizme, djevojačke, momačke… bez pečene janjetine. I najlakše je ovako doći po nju, svježe pečenu, isječenu – govori Sebastijan.
Gdje nabavljate janjce?
- Janjetina je domaća. Obavezno. I odojci. Janjetinu nabavljamo iz Ravnih kotara i Bukovice, a odojci stižu iz okolice Bjelovara – kaže Sebastijan.
---
---
U drugoj prostoriji Milena Košević siječe meso. Lupa sjekirom. Stavlja na vagu. Dodaje. Kupci nestrpljivi. Mirisi neopisivi. Mesa, tek pečenog, posvuda.
- Ne smije se stati. Ne smije ne biti. Ne može čovjek doći u 6 popodne, a da fali nešto što on traži. Mora biti. I mora biti friško. To je tako. Ja cijeli život nemam ni nedjelje, ni praznike. Ali suprug, ja i četvero djece smo zajednički stvorili nešto, dio smo zadarske „kulture pečenoga.“ Stvaramo i dalje. Je, malo me boli desno rame. I vene na nogama. Ma, tko za to mari – kaže jednostavna, otvorena, vrijedna i nasmijana Jadranka Brkljača.
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title=Samo Zadar od hrvatskih gradova ima tradiciju pečenjarnica; "Nema te livade na koju bi stao toliki broj janjaca koliko sam ih spremio za peći!"
[metakey] => jadranka brkljača, pečenjarnica brkljača, sebastijan brkljača
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50 godina duga obiteljska tradicija koju Zadrani jako cijene!<\/p>","
Pe\u010denjarnica Brklja\u010da dogodine slavi 50 godina bavljenja pe\u010denjem janjetine i odojaka.
\nJadranka Brklja\u010da
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Sebastijan Brklja\u010da
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Sebastijan Brklja\u010da
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Pe\u010denjarnica Brklja\u010da<\/p>","
Sebastijan Brklja\u010da
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Pe\u010denjarnica Brklja\u010da dogodine slavi 50 godina bavljenja pe\u010denjem janjetine i odojaka.
\nMajka Jadranka i sin Sebastijan Brklja\u010da.
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Milena Ko\u0161evi\u0107, zaposlenica
\n\u00a0<\/p>","
Detalj iz pe\u010denjarnice
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50 godina duga obiteljska tradicija koju Zadrani jako cijene!
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Detalj iz pečenjarnice
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Pečenjarnice su simbol Zadra. U tolikom broju, koliko ih je u Zadru, nema ih nigdje u Hrvatskoj.
Zavezani janjci i odojci, nabijeni na ražanj, vrte se naočigled prolaznika, na ulicama. Od sedam sati ujutro širi se miris pečenja u najurbanijim gradskim četvrtima.
- Je, po tome je baš Zadar poseban. Prva pečenjarnica najbliža Zadru je tek kod Murtera. Ili ona druga, na Boraji. Nema ih bliže. A u Zadru ih, recimo, samo u Ulici Franka Lisice na Bulevaru ima tri. Pa kod Vidaića, pa Paleka, evo i mi radimo već pola stoljeća… – kaže Jadranka Brkljača, vlasnica pečenjarnice Brkljača na Smiljevcu u Zadru.
Pola stoljeća?
- Dogodine ćemo proslaviti 50 godina bavljenja ovim poslom. Počeli smo 11. lipnja 1974. Eto – kaže Jadranka, sva crvena od blizine vatre. Pričamo s njom u pečenjarnici Brkljača, u donjem dijelu kuće, gdje se meso peče. Jadranka ima 65 godina i desna je ruka suprugu Mili. Oboje su iz Raštevića, on je započeo posao, a ona je imala 19 godina kad se udala za njega i od tada se od vatre nije maknula.
Nije vam dosadilo?
- Ne! Zato što volim ovaj posao. Malo sam nekad masna, malo neuredna, malo mi nekad dim „pojede“ oči, ali to je tako. Sinovi mi kažu da prestanem raditi, ali ja volim. Kao da je prvi dan. Stavljam na ražanj, pečem, siječem… sve – smije se Jadranka.
Ni umorili se niste?
- E, lipa moja, da ti kažem nešto. Udala sam se s 19, muž je već radio ovaj posao, nije tu bilo puno mudrovanja, sikiru u ruku, nauči kako se siječe janjetina, peci, nosi. Jedno za drugim četvero djece sam rodila. Dva moja sina i dvije kćeri, svi smo u ovom poslu. Mene „nosi“ ponos i zadovoljstvo. Obitelj na okupu, svi u istom poslu koji smo tako skromno počeli u Rašteviću. A tek zadovoljstvo naših kupaca koliko mi znači. Nema umora. A imamo i radnike – priča Jadranka Brkljača.
Rat ih je otjerao iz Raštevića i u Zadru su nastavili peći i prodavati meso. Od 2000. godine su na Smiljevcu, nema tko ne zna za pečenjarnicu Brkljača uz magistralnu cestu. Iduće godine, kad budu slavili pola stoljeća bavljenja ovim poslom, otvorit će na katu prostor gdje će se moći sjesti.
- Nismo pečenjara. U pečenjarama se peku i čevapi, pljeskavice… A pečenjarnice su mjesta gdje se na ražnju peku samo odojci i janjci. Ljudi dođu, kupe, odu. Zadar je specifičan koliko toga ima, svi hoće pečeno, za ponit, ne žele sjediti. Mi u šest sati ujutro palimo vatru – ubacuje se Sebastijan Brkljača, 37-godišnji sin Mile i Jadranke. Sve vodi i nadzire, od nabavke janjaca i odojaka, do isporuke kupcima, ali ne zaustavlja se s radom dok priča s nama. Stavlja janjca na ražanj i grabi sol.
---
---
Pošto kilo pečene janjetine?
- 30 eura. To vam je 225 kuna, donedavno. Kilo odojka je 18 eura, znači 135 kuna – kaže Sebastijan dok solju „maže“ janjca. Okrene ga. Za dvije male kuke na ražnju kači mu zadnje dvije noge.
- To je puškica, to vam ljudi jako vole – dobaci Sebastijan, kad je „ulovio“ moj pogled.
- Ali plećka je broj jedan. To se najviše traži. I rebarca – kaže Sebastijan i nevjerojatnom brzinom s dvije žice podvezuje dijelove janjca na ražnju. Papršnjacima zatvara utrobu. Soli. Prevrće. Vezuje. Namješta.
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Koliko ste ih u životu tako stavili ražanj?
- Nema te livade na koju bi stao toliki broj janjaca koliko sam ih spremio za peći.
Nema?
- Nema. Vjerujte – mirno kaže Sebastijan i nosi janjca iznad vatre.
- Znate, papršnjake i glave traže kupci da im prodamo odvojeno. To su ipak delicije. Prvi kupci nam stižu prije devet ujutro, oni nose pečeno meso sa sobom na selo, na otoke, na put… Drugi val stiže oko 11 sati, tako, do podne, to su marende – započeo je govoriti Sebastijan, kad je vozilo zadarske Hitne pomoći zaškripalo stajući uz pečenjarnicu. Nikome nije trebala pomoć, nego je ekipa došla po malo pečenog. Podne je, vrijeme marende…
- Puno više se prodaje odojak. Janjetina ide za fešte ili nedjeljom. Naša kultura je takva. Nema tog krštenja, svadbe, pričesti, krizme, djevojačke, momačke… bez pečene janjetine. I najlakše je ovako doći po nju, svježe pečenu, isječenu – govori Sebastijan.
Gdje nabavljate janjce?
- Janjetina je domaća. Obavezno. I odojci. Janjetinu nabavljamo iz Ravnih kotara i Bukovice, a odojci stižu iz okolice Bjelovara – kaže Sebastijan.
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U drugoj prostoriji Milena Košević siječe meso. Lupa sjekirom. Stavlja na vagu. Dodaje. Kupci nestrpljivi. Mirisi neopisivi. Mesa, tek pečenog, posvuda.
- Ne smije se stati. Ne smije ne biti. Ne može čovjek doći u 6 popodne, a da fali nešto što on traži. Mora biti. I mora biti friško. To je tako. Ja cijeli život nemam ni nedjelje, ni praznike. Ali suprug, ja i četvero djece smo zajednički stvorili nešto, dio smo zadarske „kulture pečenoga.“ Stvaramo i dalje. Je, malo me boli desno rame. I vene na nogama. Ma, tko za to mari – kaže jednostavna, otvorena, vrijedna i nasmijana Jadranka Brkljača.
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Jure Miskovic/Cropix/Cropix
Pečenjarnica Brkljača dogodine slavi 50 godina bavljenja pečenjem janjetine i odojaka.
Majka Jadranka i sin Sebastijan Brkljača.
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18. svibanj 2024 09:33
