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Kad nešto jako želiš i potrudiš se napraviti sve u svojoj moći da se to i ostvari, sreća ti se na koncu najčešće i osmjehne. Dokaz je Stipe Šušnjara, splitski chef rodom iz Sinja koji je u potrazi za ostvarenjem svojih snova prešao poprilično dug put, sve do Londona i Dublina, a danas svojim nesvakidašnjim kombinacijama okusa oduševljava posjetitelje poznatog restorana Artičok.

Glavni kuhar ovog popularnog objekta uveo nas u svijet iznenađujućih kombinacija kako tehnika, tako i namirnica, no priču počinjemo od početka, zapravo točnije bi bilo reći od završetka. Ugostiteljske škole.

- U to vrijeme nisam bio dovoljno educiran, niti sam imao ideje u kojem smjeru krenuti. U to vrijeme u Splitu nije bilo kuhara u kojima sam mogao pronaći uzore pa nisam mogao ni pronaći motivaciju u kuhanju. Odlučio sam da trebam nešto poduzeti ako želim voljeti ovo što radim, a to danas zaista i volim. Bila je 2013. godina kada sam odlučio kupiti kartu za London u jednom smjeru i evo, tu smo – govori nam Stipe.

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Stipe Stanić
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U Londonu je radio u brojnim restoranima, među ostalim u francuskom restoranu Côte u blizini Hyde parka. Više od godinu dana je živio i radio u Dublinu. Skupljao je iskustvo čak i u azijskim restoranima što ga je potaklo da kombinira azijske tehnike kuhanja s domaćim namirnicama i dovelo do vrlo zanimljivih rješenja. Primjerice, njegov soja umak je nešto zaista posebno. Kako nam je objasnio, taj se umak inače dobiva fermentacijom soje i riže, ali Stipe fermentacijom slanutka i ječma postiže potpuno novi, jedinstveni okus.

Shvatio je, priča nam, da mu hobiji koje je oduvijek imao kao što su planinarenje, boravak u prirodi i skupljanje različitih gljiva i biljaka mogu pomoći i u kuhinji. Počeo je sastojke prikupljene u prirodi koristiti kao namirnice u pripremi jela. Ne čudi nas stoga čuti kako su mu uzori svi oni kuhari koji razmišljaju van postavljenih standarda.

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Stipe Stanić
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- Standardi nas, u biti, sputavaju. Tek kada izađemo van postavljenih okvira vidimo kako znanost možemo implementirati u kuhanje. Jedan od izvrsnih primjera ovakvog načina razmišljanja je René Redzepi (suvlasnik čuvenog restorana Nomu, ovjenčanog s čak tri Michelinove zvjezdice). On je uz pomoć Davida Zilbera eksperimentirao s raznim vrstama fermentacije, obišli su praktički sve dijelove svijeta te su od lokanih sastojaka napravili nove proizvode. To je pokrenulo cijelu struju kuhara koji se vraćaju na tradicionalne metode kao što su upravo fermentacija i sušenje - pojašnjava nam chef.

Stipe dodaje kako je važno ne planirati unaprijed što kuhati, nego učiniti “đir” po pazaru i peškariji, odabrati svježe namirnice i sukladno tome što je sezonski i dostupno isplanirati jelo. Napominje da je bitno iskoristiti puni potencijal svake namirnice, iskoristiti sve što se može kako bi se što manje toga bacilo.

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Stipe Stanić
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Priprema nekih sastojaka kreće, otkriva nam, čak deset mjeseci ranije. U jesen Stipe, primjerice, radi fermentacija buče, a u ljeto fermentiraju dinju. Na taj način nešto što je sezonsko, objašnjava chef, postaje dostupno tijekom cijele godine.

- Volimo solit ribu, pa je nakon toga dimimo i serviramo kao “snack” s tom fermentiranom dinjom. To jesu procesi koji traju po nekoliko mjeseci, ali rezultiraju time da je namirnica iskoristiva u bilo koje doba godine – objašnjava nam Stipe.

U Artičoku, evo još jednog kuriuziteta, pripremaju čak i vlastitu mortadelu, a ideju za to potakle su priče starijih ljudi koji su pričali o mirisu svježe mortadele na toplom kruhu. Inspiriran tom pričom, Stipe je napravio mortadelu bez ikakvih neprirodnih dodataka, začinjenu tek s pistacijom i paprom. U ponudi su već imali domaći kruh s domaćim kvascem, a kako bi priča bila potpuna napravili su i domaće maslo. A tek pikantna kobasica od pastrve iz Jadra u sendviču s kupusom kuhanim na gregadu kao i bao bunsi s domaćim kimchijem i pork bellyjem... Ma, bolje je više ne nabrajati.

Dimljena pastrva sa slatkim kupusom

Sastojci:

250 g hladno dimljene pastrve
1 veliki luk
1 mrkva
3 režnja češnjaka
3 grančice peršina
1 srednja glava slatkog kupusa
2 krumpira
50 ml maslinova ulja
1 čili
kajenski papar (po želji)
sol, papar
riblji temeljac

Priprema:

Na maslinovu ulju kratko prodinstati na krupne kocke rezani luk i mrkvu.

Dodati sjeckani češnjak i čili, zaliti temeljcem te dodati krumpir rezan na kockice. Začiniti solju i paprom, a po želji dodati i malo kajenskog papra. Kuhati na jakoj vatri dok krumpir ne bude na pola skuhan pa dodati krupno rezani slatki kupus.

Kad je kupus gotov, dodati dimljenu pastrvu, ugasiti te dodati maslinovo ulje i peršin. Dodatno začiniti ako je potrebno.

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Kad nešto jako želiš i potrudiš se napraviti sve u svojoj moći da se to i ostvari, sreća ti se na koncu najčešće i osmjehne. Dokaz je Stipe Šušnjara, splitski chef rodom iz Sinja koji je u potrazi za ostvarenjem svojih snova prešao poprilično dug put, sve do Londona i Dublina, a danas svojim nesvakidašnjim kombinacijama okusa oduševljava posjetitelje poznatog restorana Artičok.

Glavni kuhar ovog popularnog objekta uveo nas u svijet iznenađujućih kombinacija kako tehnika, tako i namirnica, no priču počinjemo od početka, zapravo točnije bi bilo reći od završetka. Ugostiteljske škole.

- U to vrijeme nisam bio dovoljno educiran, niti sam imao ideje u kojem smjeru krenuti. U to vrijeme u Splitu nije bilo kuhara u kojima sam mogao pronaći uzore pa nisam mogao ni pronaći motivaciju u kuhanju. Odlučio sam da trebam nešto poduzeti ako želim voljeti ovo što radim, a to danas zaista i volim. Bila je 2013. godina kada sam odlučio kupiti kartu za London u jednom smjeru i evo, tu smo – govori nam Stipe.

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image
Stipe Stanić
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U Londonu je radio u brojnim restoranima, među ostalim u francuskom restoranu Côte u blizini Hyde parka. Više od godinu dana je živio i radio u Dublinu. Skupljao je iskustvo čak i u azijskim restoranima što ga je potaklo da kombinira azijske tehnike kuhanja s domaćim namirnicama i dovelo do vrlo zanimljivih rješenja. Primjerice, njegov soja umak je nešto zaista posebno. Kako nam je objasnio, taj se umak inače dobiva fermentacijom soje i riže, ali Stipe fermentacijom slanutka i ječma postiže potpuno novi, jedinstveni okus.

Shvatio je, priča nam, da mu hobiji koje je oduvijek imao kao što su planinarenje, boravak u prirodi i skupljanje različitih gljiva i biljaka mogu pomoći i u kuhinji. Počeo je sastojke prikupljene u prirodi koristiti kao namirnice u pripremi jela. Ne čudi nas stoga čuti kako su mu uzori svi oni kuhari koji razmišljaju van postavljenih standarda.

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image
Stipe Stanić
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- Standardi nas, u biti, sputavaju. Tek kada izađemo van postavljenih okvira vidimo kako znanost možemo implementirati u kuhanje. Jedan od izvrsnih primjera ovakvog načina razmišljanja je René Redzepi (suvlasnik čuvenog restorana Nomu, ovjenčanog s čak tri Michelinove zvjezdice). On je uz pomoć Davida Zilbera eksperimentirao s raznim vrstama fermentacije, obišli su praktički sve dijelove svijeta te su od lokanih sastojaka napravili nove proizvode. To je pokrenulo cijelu struju kuhara koji se vraćaju na tradicionalne metode kao što su upravo fermentacija i sušenje - pojašnjava nam chef.

Stipe dodaje kako je važno ne planirati unaprijed što kuhati, nego učiniti “đir” po pazaru i peškariji, odabrati svježe namirnice i sukladno tome što je sezonski i dostupno isplanirati jelo. Napominje da je bitno iskoristiti puni potencijal svake namirnice, iskoristiti sve što se može kako bi se što manje toga bacilo.

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image
Stipe Stanić
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Priprema nekih sastojaka kreće, otkriva nam, čak deset mjeseci ranije. U jesen Stipe, primjerice, radi fermentacija buče, a u ljeto fermentiraju dinju. Na taj način nešto što je sezonsko, objašnjava chef, postaje dostupno tijekom cijele godine.

- Volimo solit ribu, pa je nakon toga dimimo i serviramo kao “snack” s tom fermentiranom dinjom. To jesu procesi koji traju po nekoliko mjeseci, ali rezultiraju time da je namirnica iskoristiva u bilo koje doba godine – objašnjava nam Stipe.

U Artičoku, evo još jednog kuriuziteta, pripremaju čak i vlastitu mortadelu, a ideju za to potakle su priče starijih ljudi koji su pričali o mirisu svježe mortadele na toplom kruhu. Inspiriran tom pričom, Stipe je napravio mortadelu bez ikakvih neprirodnih dodataka, začinjenu tek s pistacijom i paprom. U ponudi su već imali domaći kruh s domaćim kvascem, a kako bi priča bila potpuna napravili su i domaće maslo. A tek pikantna kobasica od pastrve iz Jadra u sendviču s kupusom kuhanim na gregadu kao i bao bunsi s domaćim kimchijem i pork bellyjem... Ma, bolje je više ne nabrajati.

Dimljena pastrva sa slatkim kupusom

Sastojci:

250 g hladno dimljene pastrve
1 veliki luk
1 mrkva
3 režnja češnjaka
3 grančice peršina
1 srednja glava slatkog kupusa
2 krumpira
50 ml maslinova ulja
1 čili
kajenski papar (po želji)
sol, papar
riblji temeljac

Priprema:

Na maslinovu ulju kratko prodinstati na krupne kocke rezani luk i mrkvu.

Dodati sjeckani češnjak i čili, zaliti temeljcem te dodati krumpir rezan na kockice. Začiniti solju i paprom, a po želji dodati i malo kajenskog papra. Kuhati na jakoj vatri dok krumpir ne bude na pola skuhan pa dodati krupno rezani slatki kupus.

Kad je kupus gotov, dodati dimljenu pastrvu, ugasiti te dodati maslinovo ulje i peršin. Dodatno začiniti ako je potrebno.

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Jadran Babić Stipe Stanić Stipe Stanić Stipe Stanić
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Pričestvara prava čuda

Stipe je umjetnik u kužini! Chef rodom iz Sinja briljira u centru Splita, popričali smo s njim i ‘užicali‘ top recept

Piše Mia Uzinić
26. prosinca 2023. - 18:07

Kad nešto jako želiš i potrudiš se napraviti sve u svojoj moći da se to i ostvari, sreća ti se na koncu najčešće i osmjehne. Dokaz je Stipe Šušnjara, splitski chef rodom iz Sinja koji je u potrazi za ostvarenjem svojih snova prešao poprilično dug put, sve do Londona i Dublina, a danas svojim nesvakidašnjim kombinacijama okusa oduševljava posjetitelje poznatog restorana Artičok.

Glavni kuhar ovog popularnog objekta uveo nas u svijet iznenađujućih kombinacija kako tehnika, tako i namirnica, no priču počinjemo od početka, zapravo točnije bi bilo reći od završetka. Ugostiteljske škole.

- U to vrijeme nisam bio dovoljno educiran, niti sam imao ideje u kojem smjeru krenuti. U to vrijeme u Splitu nije bilo kuhara u kojima sam mogao pronaći uzore pa nisam mogao ni pron...

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13. svibanj 2024 16:36