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Netom što smo odgledali 'Kuću Gucci', još jedan modni imperij zakucao je na filmska vrata, a taj je ni manje ni više nego – Dior. Drama 'Visoka moda' nije, međutim, priča o nastanku dinastije i intrigama u obitelji francuskog dizajnera Christiana Diora već insiderski uvid u krojačnice tog slavnog branda, gdje anonimni šnajderi tjednima disciplinirano stvaraju toalete za modne revije.
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Jedna od njih je Esther (Nathalie Baye), šefica osoblja iz Diorove Avenue Montaigne manufakture, žena bremenite prošlosti koja uoči umirovljenja otkriva potencijalnu nasljednicu u djevojci iz geta Jade (Lyna Kohoudri). U filmu francuske redateljice Sylvie Ohayon modna scena tek je kulisa za složene međuljudske odnose koji uključuju obiteljske traume, stalešku raslojenost i aktualni trenutak Macronove zemlje nejednakosti po etničkom ključu.
Interakcija glavnih glumica dinamična je os koja propituje dobne i svjetonazorske 'drugačijosti' akterica te različite pristupe životnim izazovima. Baye, inače četverostruka dobitnica prestižne nagrade Cesar i nositeljica viteške titule Legije časti dominira ekranom, njezina gluma počiva na neposrednosti kojom plijeni i kad ništa ne nameće. Veteranki filma i TV-a pri tome odlično parira 20-godišnja Lyna Khoudri, mlada zvijezda alžirskih korijena koju smo nedavno gledali kao partnericu Timotheea Chalameta u 'Francuskoj depeši', najnovijem hitu Wesa Andersona. Khoudri svoju junakinju Jade s društvenog dna i kotla predrasuda uvjerljivo povlači u svijet mahom rezerviran za domicilne Francuze.
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'Visoka moda' emotivno je iznimno privlačna, no nipošto ne i ostvarenje bez mana. Središnja narativna linija ne nudi mnogošto novog, storija o starijem protagonistu na zalasku karijere i nadobudnom, od njega po svemu različitom, mladom stvorenju koje će posao preuzeti od izvornika viđena je na platnu u više varijanti. Ni Estherino kajanje zbog problematičnog odnosa s kćerkom i potiskivanje straha od samoće ni po čemu nije bez presedana. Više likova i situacija ostaje podglumljeno ili nedorečeno. Primjer su Jadein odnos s kolegom iz krojačnice Abelom (Adam Bessa) ili pakost zavidne konkurentice Andree (Claude Perron) koji uopće ne proizvedu učinak na rasplet.
Veza Jade i njezine prijateljice iz kvarta Souad (Soumaye Bocoum) nije do kraja razjašnjena, kao da je se ne usuđuju nazvati lezbijskom. Ohayon je mogla za petnaestak minuta produljiti film kako bismo stekli malo bolji uvid u svakodnevicu Diorovih švelji i života u getoiziranim dijelovima francuske metropole, izdvojenim mikrosvjetovima koji se ovdje svode tek na arapsko podrijetlo stanara.
I sam kraj je prilično ziheraški, ne ostavlja previše prostora za dublja promišljanja prolaznosti života i potrebe za zbližavanjem različitosti. Ukratko, 'Visoka moda' nije haute couture poput hvaljene 'Kuće Gucci', već bi joj više odgovarao pojam pret-a-porter. U ovom slučaju to uopće nije uvredljivo. Zbog sitnog veza tandema Baye-Khoudri film svakako vrijedi pogledati.
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Netom što smo odgledali 'Kuću Gucci', još jedan modni imperij zakucao je na filmska vrata, a taj je ni manje ni više nego – Dior. Drama 'Visoka moda' nije, međutim, priča o nastanku dinastije i intrigama u obitelji francuskog dizajnera Christiana Diora već insiderski uvid u krojačnice tog slavnog branda, gdje anonimni šnajderi tjednima disciplinirano stvaraju toalete za modne revije.
---
---
Jedna od njih je Esther (Nathalie Baye), šefica osoblja iz Diorove Avenue Montaigne manufakture, žena bremenite prošlosti koja uoči umirovljenja otkriva potencijalnu nasljednicu u djevojci iz geta Jade (Lyna Kohoudri). U filmu francuske redateljice Sylvie Ohayon modna scena tek je kulisa za složene međuljudske odnose koji uključuju obiteljske traume, stalešku raslojenost i aktualni trenutak Macronove zemlje nejednakosti po etničkom ključu.
Interakcija glavnih glumica dinamična je os koja propituje dobne i svjetonazorske 'drugačijosti' akterica te različite pristupe životnim izazovima. Baye, inače četverostruka dobitnica prestižne nagrade Cesar i nositeljica viteške titule Legije časti dominira ekranom, njezina gluma počiva na neposrednosti kojom plijeni i kad ništa ne nameće. Veteranki filma i TV-a pri tome odlično parira 20-godišnja Lyna Khoudri, mlada zvijezda alžirskih korijena koju smo nedavno gledali kao partnericu Timotheea Chalameta u 'Francuskoj depeši', najnovijem hitu Wesa Andersona. Khoudri svoju junakinju Jade s društvenog dna i kotla predrasuda uvjerljivo povlači u svijet mahom rezerviran za domicilne Francuze.
---
---
'Visoka moda' emotivno je iznimno privlačna, no nipošto ne i ostvarenje bez mana. Središnja narativna linija ne nudi mnogošto novog, storija o starijem protagonistu na zalasku karijere i nadobudnom, od njega po svemu različitom, mladom stvorenju koje će posao preuzeti od izvornika viđena je na platnu u više varijanti. Ni Estherino kajanje zbog problematičnog odnosa s kćerkom i potiskivanje straha od samoće ni po čemu nije bez presedana. Više likova i situacija ostaje podglumljeno ili nedorečeno. Primjer su Jadein odnos s kolegom iz krojačnice Abelom (Adam Bessa) ili pakost zavidne konkurentice Andree (Claude Perron) koji uopće ne proizvedu učinak na rasplet.
Veza Jade i njezine prijateljice iz kvarta Souad (Soumaye Bocoum) nije do kraja razjašnjena, kao da je se ne usuđuju nazvati lezbijskom. Ohayon je mogla za petnaestak minuta produljiti film kako bismo stekli malo bolji uvid u svakodnevicu Diorovih švelji i života u getoiziranim dijelovima francuske metropole, izdvojenim mikrosvjetovima koji se ovdje svode tek na arapsko podrijetlo stanara.
I sam kraj je prilično ziheraški, ne ostavlja previše prostora za dublja promišljanja prolaznosti života i potrebe za zbližavanjem različitosti. Ukratko, 'Visoka moda' nije haute couture poput hvaljene 'Kuće Gucci', već bi joj više odgovarao pojam pret-a-porter. U ovom slučaju to uopće nije uvredljivo. Zbog sitnog veza tandema Baye-Khoudri film svakako vrijedi pogledati.
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19. svibanj 2024 01:43
