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Brač je stina, a stina je veselje – to mi je jedna od najdražih definicija otoka Brača. Ovaj otok je stvarno stina – kamen, a najbolji brački kamen ima ime – zove se veselje... I sve vam je tu od kamena i esencija iz kamena. I sve bračko veselje izlazi iz njega, sve bračke delicije, okusi, mirisi, masline, smokve, ljekovito bilje, ovce, čuveni brački sir...
Da nije kamena, ne bi Brač mirisao tako. I imao što ima: oko milijun maslina, čuvenu bračku janjetinu, čuveni brački sir, smokve, ribu iz čistog mora, mirisne trave...
Bračko maslinovo ulje nedavno je dobilo oznaku izvornosti, zaštićen je i brački varenik, i... O Braču mi koji smo mu bliže znamo dosta, a o njegovim posebnostima početkom ljeta doznali su i brojni drugi.
U organizaciji Turističke zajednice Supetra i njezina predsjednika Ivana Cvitanića, i Kluba Gastronaut na čelu s Karin Mimicom, koji stoje iza projekta "Otključavanje okusa Brača", 30-ak je novinara iz šest zemalja stiglo u Supetar, prvo misto, vrata Brača.
"Većina turista dolazi na otok Brač trajektima i upravo im se u supetarskim restoranima 'otključavaju' autentični okusi bračkih namirnica i tradicionalnih jela. Ovo je prilika da okusima otkrijemo tradiciju, povijest i baštinu otoka, a sve kroz projekt u kojem su se okupili konobe i restorani kako bi kroz zajedničku marketinšku platformu prenijeli zajedničku priču, ali i istaknuli svoje posebnosti i ponudu", kazala je Karin Mimica.
Tijekom tri dana gastro-putovanja obilazili su novinari restorane i konobe uključene u projekt. Počelo je u čarobnoj atmosferi večeri na vrhu supetarskog hotela "Osam", u pogledom na cijeli Supetar i svjetla Splita preko mora.
U "Rooftop baru" su već čuveni, a mladi brački vinari, bračni par Saša i Magdalena Senjković, predstavili svoje vrhunske plavce Bročka rič i Bosso, rose Spoža i pošip Sentiment te vermut koji je napravila njihova vinarija.
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Magdalena je uz njih, među ostalim, priredila male zalogaje sa škutom i jagodama te šljive punjene mladim sirom i omotane pancetom koje su dovršene na grillu.
Otključavanje okusa Brača nastavljeno je ujutro u Muzeju uja u Škripu, najstarijemu mjestu na otoku.
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U staroj uljari, prepunoj uspomena na davna maslinarska vremena, koja je u vlasništvu obitelji Krstulović već 160 godina, čulo se o preradi maslina i maslinarskoj povijesti otoka, a ostat će zapamćeni likeri od maslina i višanja, marinirana riba, izvrsne tapenade od maslina...
A onda u bajkovitu malu Splitsku. Jutro od bonace, a na maloj terasi pred konobom "Kod Tonča", u hladu korak do mora, delicija do delicije: crni rižot za pamćenje, brački pjat od težačkih i ribarskih delicija, bračka torta od badema i čokolade, prekrasan brački sir... A domaćin je čuveni maslinar Frane Oreb i njegov sina Nedi.
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Ulje im "govori sto jezika", vjerujte! Frane mi kaže kako je konoba "Kod Tonča" dobila ime po nonotu koji je krajem šezdesetih otvorio ovu danas najstariju konobu na Braču. A masline i ulje? Frane veli da imaju 1200 maslina i lani su "uvatili" samo 600 litara ulja, nikad u svojoj povijesti manje. Ali, dodaje, bit će bolje jer i sin i unuk Frane vole masline i za njihovu maslinarsku priču nema straha.
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Iz Splitske ćemo put Supetra. Iznad grada konoba "Štorija", malo tiho imanje, lijep hlad maslina i mirisi s komina. Domaćin Mate Mladina i njegovi su nam priredili izvanrednu janjetinu na špicu i hobotnicu ispod peke. Ovo je mjesto van grada, doznajem, omiljeno Bračanima za pireve, rođendane, fešte svake vrste.
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U poznatoj supetarskoj konobi "Vinotoka", koja se nalazi iznad rive, u kali gdje je živio hrvatski slikar Ignjat Job, uživali smo, među ostalim, u sipi s bobom, morskom škartocu, rižotu s varenikom, a domaćin Igor Martinić govorio nam je kako su sve delicije baš s otoka.
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Zapamtit će se posebno rižot s bračkim varenikom, zaštićenim na razini EU-a. Varenik je pripravak koji je u davna vremena služio umjesto šećera, a radi se o soku od crnog kvalitetnog grožđa koji se dugotrajnim iskuhavanjem satima reducira na jednu trećinu. S obzirom na dugotrajnu pripremu i raritetnost, litra varenika je oko 500 kuna, kazao je Ivan Cvitanić, direktor TZ-a Supetra.
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U sushi baru "Chopstix" opet zavodljiva, ali potpuno drukčija gastro-priča: sirove delicije od bračkih namirnica pripremljene na – istočnjački način. Vice Marinković, vlasnik "Chopstixa", koji je nedaleko od "Waterman Svpetrvs Resorta" (koji je bio odličan domaćin novinarima), veli: "Kad sam otvorio azijski restoran na Braču, svi su mi rekli da sam lud, ali pokazalo se da je pun pogodak. Đir je drukčiji, ali nam ide, dođu i Bračani i gosti."
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U konobi "Kala", odmah iznad supetarske rive, ekipa mladog chefa Dina Šeparovića je pod naslovom "Future of tradition" priredila sljedove za ljubitelje fine dininga. Pamtit će se raviole (grancigula, kozice, krema škampa, sladoled ovčji sir) te krem brudet (file gofa, palenta sa sirom i ružmarinom, tostirane pinjole, tikvica), a jela su pratila vrhunska vina čuvene bračke vinarije "Stina".
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A da prije trajekta i odlazak s otoka bude u istom vrhunskom tonu, pobrinula se odlična mlada ekipa bistroa "Bonaca", koji je na samoj supetarskoj rivi. Chef Mirko Ganić pripremio je salatu s bračkim smokvama, kozjim sirom, bademima i bračkim medom, pohane kotlete od bračke janjetine, a posebno je bio efektan sorbet u kori limuna što rastu u vrtu "Bonace".
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Krenite put Brača, otkrili smo vam samo dio njegove velike priče.
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Delicije u konobi 'Kod Tonča' u Splitskoj
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Delicije u konobi 'Kod Tonča' u Splitskoj
Meri Šilović i Rino Gropuzzo
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Brač je stina, a stina je veselje – to mi je jedna od najdražih definicija otoka Brača. Ovaj otok je stvarno stina – kamen, a najbolji brački kamen ima ime – zove se veselje... I sve vam je tu od kamena i esencija iz kamena. I sve bračko veselje izlazi iz njega, sve bračke delicije, okusi, mirisi, masline, smokve, ljekovito bilje, ovce, čuveni brački sir...
Da nije kamena, ne bi Brač mirisao tako. I imao što ima: oko milijun maslina, čuvenu bračku janjetinu, čuveni brački sir, smokve, ribu iz čistog mora, mirisne trave...
Bračko maslinovo ulje nedavno je dobilo oznaku izvornosti, zaštićen je i brački varenik, i... O Braču mi koji smo mu bliže znamo dosta, a o njegovim posebnostima početkom ljeta doznali su i brojni drugi.
U organizaciji Turističke zajednice Supetra i njezina predsjednika Ivana Cvitanića, i Kluba Gastronaut na čelu s Karin Mimicom, koji stoje iza projekta "Otključavanje okusa Brača", 30-ak je novinara iz šest zemalja stiglo u Supetar, prvo misto, vrata Brača.
"Većina turista dolazi na otok Brač trajektima i upravo im se u supetarskim restoranima 'otključavaju' autentični okusi bračkih namirnica i tradicionalnih jela. Ovo je prilika da okusima otkrijemo tradiciju, povijest i baštinu otoka, a sve kroz projekt u kojem su se okupili konobe i restorani kako bi kroz zajedničku marketinšku platformu prenijeli zajedničku priču, ali i istaknuli svoje posebnosti i ponudu", kazala je Karin Mimica.
Tijekom tri dana gastro-putovanja obilazili su novinari restorane i konobe uključene u projekt. Počelo je u čarobnoj atmosferi večeri na vrhu supetarskog hotela "Osam", u pogledom na cijeli Supetar i svjetla Splita preko mora.
U "Rooftop baru" su već čuveni, a mladi brački vinari, bračni par Saša i Magdalena Senjković, predstavili svoje vrhunske plavce Bročka rič i Bosso, rose Spoža i pošip Sentiment te vermut koji je napravila njihova vinarija.
---
---
---
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Magdalena je uz njih, među ostalim, priredila male zalogaje sa škutom i jagodama te šljive punjene mladim sirom i omotane pancetom koje su dovršene na grillu.
Otključavanje okusa Brača nastavljeno je ujutro u Muzeju uja u Škripu, najstarijemu mjestu na otoku.
---
---
U staroj uljari, prepunoj uspomena na davna maslinarska vremena, koja je u vlasništvu obitelji Krstulović već 160 godina, čulo se o preradi maslina i maslinarskoj povijesti otoka, a ostat će zapamćeni likeri od maslina i višanja, marinirana riba, izvrsne tapenade od maslina...
A onda u bajkovitu malu Splitsku. Jutro od bonace, a na maloj terasi pred konobom "Kod Tonča", u hladu korak do mora, delicija do delicije: crni rižot za pamćenje, brački pjat od težačkih i ribarskih delicija, bračka torta od badema i čokolade, prekrasan brački sir... A domaćin je čuveni maslinar Frane Oreb i njegov sina Nedi.
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Ulje im "govori sto jezika", vjerujte! Frane mi kaže kako je konoba "Kod Tonča" dobila ime po nonotu koji je krajem šezdesetih otvorio ovu danas najstariju konobu na Braču. A masline i ulje? Frane veli da imaju 1200 maslina i lani su "uvatili" samo 600 litara ulja, nikad u svojoj povijesti manje. Ali, dodaje, bit će bolje jer i sin i unuk Frane vole masline i za njihovu maslinarsku priču nema straha.
---
---
Iz Splitske ćemo put Supetra. Iznad grada konoba "Štorija", malo tiho imanje, lijep hlad maslina i mirisi s komina. Domaćin Mate Mladina i njegovi su nam priredili izvanrednu janjetinu na špicu i hobotnicu ispod peke. Ovo je mjesto van grada, doznajem, omiljeno Bračanima za pireve, rođendane, fešte svake vrste.
---
---
U poznatoj supetarskoj konobi "Vinotoka", koja se nalazi iznad rive, u kali gdje je živio hrvatski slikar Ignjat Job, uživali smo, među ostalim, u sipi s bobom, morskom škartocu, rižotu s varenikom, a domaćin Igor Martinić govorio nam je kako su sve delicije baš s otoka.
---
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Zapamtit će se posebno rižot s bračkim varenikom, zaštićenim na razini EU-a. Varenik je pripravak koji je u davna vremena služio umjesto šećera, a radi se o soku od crnog kvalitetnog grožđa koji se dugotrajnim iskuhavanjem satima reducira na jednu trećinu. S obzirom na dugotrajnu pripremu i raritetnost, litra varenika je oko 500 kuna, kazao je Ivan Cvitanić, direktor TZ-a Supetra.
---
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U sushi baru "Chopstix" opet zavodljiva, ali potpuno drukčija gastro-priča: sirove delicije od bračkih namirnica pripremljene na – istočnjački način. Vice Marinković, vlasnik "Chopstixa", koji je nedaleko od "Waterman Svpetrvs Resorta" (koji je bio odličan domaćin novinarima), veli: "Kad sam otvorio azijski restoran na Braču, svi su mi rekli da sam lud, ali pokazalo se da je pun pogodak. Đir je drukčiji, ali nam ide, dođu i Bračani i gosti."
---
---
U konobi "Kala", odmah iznad supetarske rive, ekipa mladog chefa Dina Šeparovića je pod naslovom "Future of tradition" priredila sljedove za ljubitelje fine dininga. Pamtit će se raviole (grancigula, kozice, krema škampa, sladoled ovčji sir) te krem brudet (file gofa, palenta sa sirom i ružmarinom, tostirane pinjole, tikvica), a jela su pratila vrhunska vina čuvene bračke vinarije "Stina".
---
---
A da prije trajekta i odlazak s otoka bude u istom vrhunskom tonu, pobrinula se odlična mlada ekipa bistroa "Bonaca", koji je na samoj supetarskoj rivi. Chef Mirko Ganić pripremio je salatu s bračkim smokvama, kozjim sirom, bademima i bračkim medom, pohane kotlete od bračke janjetine, a posebno je bio efektan sorbet u kori limuna što rastu u vrtu "Bonace".
---
---
Krenite put Brača, otkrili smo vam samo dio njegove velike priče.
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12. svibanj 2024 11:10
